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Wel bij de topic die hierboven staan als 'belangrijk' staat er iets over toppen nu de fotos werken neit bij mij dus ben ik er neit veel mee... voor de rest vind ik nog 1 topic over toppen maar daar staat nogal weinig uitleg en de fotos zijn neit zo duidelijk vind ik :-) kan iemand mij hiermee verderhelpen? :bier

 

greetings PiP

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Wel bij de topic die hierboven staan als 'belangrijk' staat er iets over toppen nu de fotos werken neit bij mij dus ben ik er neit veel mee... voor de rest vind ik nog 1 topic over toppen maar daar staat nogal weinig uitleg en de fotos zijn neit zo duidelijk vind ik :-) kan iemand mij hiermee verderhelpen? :bier

 

greetings PiP

nou je neemt gewoon 20 liter potten en daar laat je de stekken groeien onder 18 uur licht tot ze ongeveer 20 cm hoog zijn dan haal je de verse scheut eraf en laat je ze nog een week onder 18 uur ligt tot de zij takken een beetje redelijk zijn en dan 12 uur licht dan worden het grote planten met veel toppen{je kan dit meerdere malen doen maar dan moet je nog langer 18 uur licht}bij mij werkt het prima zo ben alleen een week meer groei kwijt maar wel ongeveer 80 gram per plant droog is toch lekker dacht ik.

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dat is een beetje kort door de bocht madmike, het is iets subtieler. Dit is de theorie:

 

What is pruning?

 

Most people are completely confused about pruning. A common misconception is that pruning is like hair cutting...you control the size and shape of a plant by pruning it. Because there is a small grain of truth to this misconception, people believe it "hook-line-and sinker." It is actually far more interesting than hair cutting!

 

When we cut a stem of a plant, for example to take a cutting, or to trim the plant, we alter the physiology of that plant. By removing a stem tip from the plant, we induce branching by releasing apical dominance. So pruning is not about what is removed, but what happens to what is left on the plant. Thus proper pruning is designed to provide proper branching on the plant...not to control its size or shape. Of course if branching is optimal, then the size and shape of the shrub will be improved and that is the grain of truth.

 

But again, I want to emphasize that pruning determines where branching will occur rather than controlling size or shape.

What is apical dominance?

 

A shoot consists of a stem with leaves. At the tip of the shoot is an apical bud. This actively grows, adds to the length of the stem, and produces more leaves along the extending stem. Where each leaf joins the stem of a shoot there is also a lateral bud. So a shoot with ten leaves has one apical bud but 10 lateral buds.

 

The apical bud produces the hormone, Indole Acetic Acid (IAA) which is also known as auxin. This chemical is produced in the rapidly growing apical bud and is transported down the shoot. Along the way, the IAA passes the lateral buds and the presence of the auxin keeps those lateral buds dormant. Dormancy means that the buds are "sleeping" or "inactive"; there is great potential for growth of the lateral buds but as long as the apical bud is intact, they remain dormant.

 

So apical dominance is a hormonal relationship in which an actively growing apical bud prevents lateral buds from growing.

 

When we prune a plant, removing the apical bud, the lateral buds in the axils of the leaves below the cut stump "awaken" and begin to actively grow. Just like the now-removed apical bud, these active lateral buds grow into shoots and their tips have apical buds that resume apical dominance over lateral buds in positions lower on the main stem.

 

So, where we prune, we get new branches locally. This is the concept that many semi-professional and most amateur pruners fail to understand. Pruning is about controlling branching.

 

Where you cut, you will next get new branches.

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