Jump to content
  • sanniesshop-banner.gif.d86ea02547aa126c899b25f607244aaf.gif sanniesseeds instagram

BeeKaa

Het Maken Van "feminized" Zaden

Recommended Posts

En duvel is er nog wat gebeurt de laatste tijd ? Ben erg benieuwd.

 

Baksteen ! :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dragonstorm ;

je mot wiet die behandeld is met zilverwater absoluut NIET ROKEN

zware metalen in je longen is levensgevaarlijk dus NIET DOEN. :rolleyes: :wacko: :likken:

 

 

 

 

houzgroen

 

 

 

 

macerror

 

Sorry, onzin. Niets giftig aan deze dosering zilver. Het is geen radium.

 

Groet, hjm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hjm : ok roken dan maar het zijn je eigen longen :rolleyes: :wacko:

 

 

 

 

 

 

houzwit

 

 

 

 

macerror

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ey,

 

Wat me niet helemaal duidelijk is, is wat jullie in dit topic precies bedoelen met STS en Colloidaal zilver. Want het lijkt vaak allebei naar hetzelfde te verwijzen. Maar volgens mij staat STS voor SilverThioSulfate (1Zilver,2Sulfaat,3Zuurstof) en is Colloidaal zilver gewoon zeer fijn opgelost zilver..

 

Ik vond trouwens een heel interessant stukje waarvan ik vind dat het hier even neergezet moet worden:

 

STS: Silver thiosulfate, a salt compound used in photography. In plants, silver interferes with, or locks out, copper, which is a necessary micronutrient. Making copper unavilable inteferes with ethylene signaling, and reduces expression of traits that are dependent on high levels of ethylene, such as female sex expression and fruit ripening.

 

Copper: a micronutrient that is necessary to assist certain enzymes in their function. Copper can become toxic at low levels, but a few parts per billion is adequate for plants to express their genetic potential. Because copper is needed at such low levels, it does not take much silver to overwhelm the available copper load and exert its effect.

 

Ethylene: One of the 5 plant hormones. The levels and ratios of these 5 hormones has a huge impact on the shape, strucutre, aroma, flavor, flowering time, and disease resistance of the plant. Hormones are the chemical messengers that allow DNA to 'talk' to plant tissues and determine the phenotype. Ethylene is primarily involved in flowering, sex determination, fruit ripening, and sensescence (rot). Ethylene is a simple organic molecule, C2 H4, which can also be represented as H2C=CH2.

In cannabis, female plants will produce male flowers if not enough ethylene is present, or if too much gibberellic acid is present. The intersex condition is due to a combination of genetic and environemental factors. Some plants will not turn male under the most extreme stress, and some plants, especially stretchy tropical sativas, will turn with no stress at all. It is my belief that the stress of severe inbreeding, compounded over several generations, is responsible for the majority of hermaphrodites in the drug cannabis gene pool (DCG) today.

 

Bron: rollitub.com

 

********Samenvatting voor de Nederlanders*****

Cannabis maakt mannelijke bloemen als er TEVEEL Gibberellinezuur aanwezig is of als er TE WEINIG Etheen aanwezig is. Etheen houdt weer verband met koper en koper wordt uitgesloten door zilver. Zilver = geen koper = geen Etheen = mannelijke bloemen. Sommige planten worden heel snel herma, anderen vrijwel niet. Vooral lange, tropische Sativa's worden bij het minst of geringste al herma.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Preparation of STS:

First, a stock solution is made. It consists of two parts (A and :rolleyes: that are initially mixed separately, then blended together. Part A is ALWAYS mixed into part B while stirring rapidly. Use distilled water; tap water may cause precipitates to form.

 

Wear gloves while mixing and using these chemicals, and mix and use in a properly ventilated area. A mask will prevent the breathing of any dust, which is caustic. STS is colorless and odorless, and poses minimal health risks if used as described here. (See material safety data sheet links below). Note that silver nitrate and STS can cause brown stains upon drying, so spray over newspaper and avoid spilling.

 

Part A: .5 gram silver nitrate stirred into 500ml distilled water

Part B: 2.5 grams sodium thiosulfate (anhydrous) stirred into 500ml distilled water

 

The silver nitrate dissolves within 15 seconds. The sodium thiosulfate takes 30-45 seconds to dissolve.

 

The silver nitrate solution (A) is then mixed into the sodium thiosulfate solution (:wacko: while stirring rapidly. The resulting blend is stock silver thiosulfate solution (STS).

 

This stock solution is then diluted at a ratio of 1:9 to make a working solution. For example, 100ml of stock STS is added to 900ml of distilled water. This is then sprayed on select female plants.

 

Both the stock STS and the working solution should be refrigerated after use, as well as the powdered chemicals, to avoid activity loss. Excess working solution can be safely poured down the drain after use (with ample running water) with negligible environmental impact. It's pretty cheap.

 

Each liter of stock STS will make ten 1-liter batches of working solution of STS. With the minimum amount of base chemicals ordered from Photographer's Formulary (see link below), this means that each 1-liter bottle of working solution STS costs less than 9 cents, and can treat 15-20 mid-sized plants. That's 200 1-liter batches of STS for $18. Note that the distilled water costs far more than the chemicals.

 

-------------------------------------

 

Application:

The STS working solution is sprayed on select female plants until runoff. Do the spraying over newspaper in a separate area from the flower room. You probably won't smell anything, but ventilate anyway. You now have what I call a "F>M plant"; a female plant that will produce male flowers.

 

After the F>M plant dries move it into 12/12 immediately. This is usually done three to four weeks prior to the date that the target (to be pollinated) plants will be ready to pollinate. Response times may vary slightly depending upon the strain. More specific times can be determined by trial with your own individual strains. In my trials it took 26 days for the first pollen. 30-35 days seems optimum for planning purposes.

 

So, assuming that a target plant needs 3-4 weeks to produce fully mature seeds, a strain that takes 8 weeks to mature should be moved into flower at about the same time as the female>male plant. A target plant that finishes flowering in 6 weeks needs to be moved into flower later (10 days or so) so that it doesn't finish before the seeds can fully mature.

 

A seeded individual branch can be left to mature on a plant for a bit longer, while harvesting the other seedless buds if they finish first. Just leave enough leaves on for the plant for it to stay healthy.

 

-------------------------------------

 

Effects:

Within days I noticed a yellowing of the leaves on the F>M plants. This effect persisted for two weeks or so; after this they became green again, except for a few of the larger fans. The plants otherwise seemed healthy. No burning was observed. Growth stopped dead for the first ten days, and then resumed slowly. No stretch was ever seen. After two weeks the F>M plants were obviously forming male flower clusters. Not just a few clusters of balls, but complete male flower tops. One plant still formed some pistillate flowers, but overall it was predominantly male.

 

It is strange indeed to see an old girlfriend that you know like the back of your hand go through a sex change. I'll admit that things were awkward between us at first.

 

When the F>M plants look like they may soon open and release pollen, ( 3-1/2 to 4 weeks) move them from the main flower room into another unventilated room or closet with lighting on a 12/12 timer. Don't worry too much about watts per square foot; it will only be temporary.

 

When the pollen flies, move your target plants into the closet and pollinate.

 

A more controlled approach is to isolate the F>M plants in a third remote closet (no light is necessary in this one, as they are releasing pollen now and are nearly finished anyway). In this remote other closet the pollen is very carefully collected in a plastic produce bag or newspaper sleeve and then brought back to the lighted closet, where the target plants are now located. If this is done, be careful to not mix pollen types by letting the F>Ms dust each other. Avoid movement, or use yet another closet.

 

Take special care to not let pollen gather on the outside of this bag- a static charge is sometimes present. Drop small open clusters of blooms inside and then close the bag at the mouth and shake. Important: next, step outside and slowly release the excess air from the bag, collapsing it completely, so that pollen doesn't get released accidentally. Points downwind; don’t let it get on your hands or clothes.

 

This collapsed pollinated bag is now very carefully slipped over only one branch and is then tied off tightly at the mouth around the branch stem with a twist tie or tape, sealing the pollen inside. Let the bag inflate slightly with air again before sealing it off, so the branch can breathe. This technique keeps the entire plant from seeding. Agitate the bag a bit after tying it off to distribute the pollen. Don't forget to label the branch so you know which seeds are which. Other branches on this same plant can be hit with different pollen sources.

 

If no lighted closet is available, the plant can be moved back into the main room, but- be very careful: pollen is sneaky. After 4-5 days, the bag is gently removed and the plant completes its flowering cycle.

 

Yet another method has worked well for me. I position the target plants in a non-ventilated lighted closet, and then I collect pollen on a piece of mirror or glass. This is then carefully applied to the pistils of one pre-labeled branch by using a very fine watercolor paintbrush. Care is taken to not agitate the branch or the pollen. No sneezing. The plant needs to be in place first; moving it after pollination can shake pollen free and blow this technique.

 

Regardless of technique, at completion you will have feminized seeds. Let them dry for 2-4 weeks.

 

Grasscity.com

 

Ik keek even naar de naam van dit topic: 'Het Maken Van "feminized" Zaden, de biologische manier..". Na zo'n 5 reacties ging het eigenlijk alleen nog maar over de chemische manier :likken:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Zowww wat een mooie fem info Cannabaceae :rolleyes:

 

Gr knutsel :wacko:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bedankt. Eigenlijk zou iemand even een stel wietplanten op bananagas (5% etheen, 95% stikstof) moeten zetten en kijken of ze allemaal vrouwelijk worden.. :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

danmm lange tijd te stoned geweest om dit stukkie mooi engels te lezen .... nu eindelijk de tijd om het te lezen en TE BEGRIJPEN:P maar danmm dat is zeker mooie informatie !!! hoop dat het echt mooie vorm gaat krijgen dit topic

 

laat de eerst female seeds maar komen ;) :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hey canna zag dat je een nieuwe poging aan het wagen bent ..

 

hoe female zijn deze zaden eigenlijk geworden ???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
hey canna zag dat je een nieuwe poging aan het wagen bent ..

 

hoe female zijn deze zaden eigenlijk geworden ???

Mijn interesse is ook gewekt :D wel een oud topic maar zeker de moeite waard om eens uit het stof te halen :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jullie wens is mijn bevel :verrygood

Lol, thanks man! ga ff lekker lezen! :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mijn lowrider dame staat nu al zo een 9 week in de bloei.

Ik heb er een zadenkweek op staan van snowrider(pappa) en lowrider(mamma).

however ik had de plant maar half bevrucht 1 maal,zaden zijn bijna rijp.

en nu begint ze banaantjes aan te maken :verrygood verzamelen en drogen/labelen dacht ik nu ik dit las.....

 

Cheers,

 

Collie Weed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ik vond op een website van andere planten dan de onze, een stukje over GA-3. Daar praten ze over een methode waarbij je gewone zaden weekt in een GA oplossing om ze te manipuleren. Het lijkt mij niet onmogelijk dat er een bepaalde concentratie is waarbij ze kunnen feminiseren. ze hebben daar ook een experimenteer kitje. http://www.seedman.com/sstartga.htm

Ik zag dat er in Nederland voldoende winkels zijn waar je G-A3 kunt kopen, al is het niet goedkoop.

Het lijkt mij best een serieuze site voor allerlei gewone en zeldzame planten voor liefhebbers.

Heeft iemand hier al eens zoiets geprobeerd????? Want dit simpele systeempje maakt mij wel heel erg nieuwsgierig, hoewel simpel voor mij al vaak te moeilijk blijkt als het om plantjes gaat :P . (ze spreken daar overigens over verschillende soorten GA voor verschillende plantensoorten............... )

Nou ben ik geen ervaren kweker, maar als iemand hiermee wil experimenteren, dan wil ik daar best bij helpen....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Het weken van zaden in GA-3 word gebruikt om de kiemkracht van oud of gevoellig zaad te verhogen en de ontkieming hiervan te stimuleren. Het gebruik van GA-3 op reeds gemaakte wietzaden zal als gevolg denk ik ook alleen effect op het ontkiemen hiervan hebben. Aangezien doel van de productie van femminised zaden het sturen van de genetische informatie welke in het zaadje komt is, dient deze sturing plaats te vinden tijdens de zaadproductie van de plant. Achteraf is weinig meer aan deze informatie te weizigen (de uitzondering van Barr-bodys en methyleren van de nucleotiden daar gelaten).

Jammer maar helaas denk ik..persoonlijk.

 

Laters, Snowie

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sjips de zoekfunctie werkt even niet.

 

Kun je er iets over vertellen, dat bars-bodys en dat methyleren? Je hebt me nu nieuwsgierig gekregen .........

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Die vind je ook niet met de zoekfunctie helaas... ik beloof vannacht meer hierover Chassie!

 

Laters, Snowie

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...